“Up to the present time, dating from the end of the eighteenth century, gold embroidery has been almost exclusively confined to those who made it a profession; amateurs have seldom attempted what, it was commonly supposed, required an apprenticeship of nine years to attain any proficiency in.” (Thérèse de Dillmont, 1886)
Preparations for embroidery with metal threads: preparing the pattern blueprint, puncturing the pattern on paper. Transferring the pattern onto the silk using the historic technique of spreading chalk powder through the punctured paper. Fixing the silk on a support fabric on an embroidery frame.
Surface Couching (de: Legetechnik) of Japan Gold (de: Japangold): gold coated paper around a thread core. The thread is laid and couched in pairs, couching thread is in a similar colour. The couching threads are offset so that they do not cause “bumps” in the end design.
Wire Bullions are very fine wire threads wound into a tubular shape. They are defined by different colours (gold, silver) and shapes.
Cutwork with Wire Bouillon (smooth surface and is matte in appearance)
Fürnkranz, Sophie. Metallstickerei im Außereuropäischen Raum. In: Kunsthistorisches Museum mit Museum für Völkerkunde und Österreichischem Theatermuseum (Hrsg.) Technologische Studien/ Kunsthistorisches Museum: Konservierung – Restaurierung – Forschung – Technologie. Band 2. Wien: Kunsthistorisches Museum, 2005
de Dillmont, Thérèse. Encyclopedia of Needlework. 2007 Link
Translated from: de Dillmont, Thérèse. Encyclopédie des ouvrages des dames. Dornach, Alsace: 1886